Ottolenghi Simple Read online

  We also recommend using an oven thermometer as all ovens will vary.

  Braised eggs with leek and za’atar

  This is a quick way to get a very comforting meal on the table in a wonderfully short amount of time. It’s a dish as happily eaten for brunch, with coffee, as it is for a light supper with some crusty white bread and a glass of wine. The leeks and spinach can be made up to 1 day ahead and kept in the fridge, ready for the eggs to be cracked in and braised.

  Serves six

  2 tbsp unsalted butter

  2 tbsp olive oil

  2 extra-large leeks (or 4 smaller), trimmed and cut into ¼-inch/½ cm slices (6 cups/530g)

  salt and black pepper

  1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed

  ½ small preserved lemon, seeds discarded, skin and flesh finely chopped (2½ tbsp)

  1¼ cups/300ml vegetable stock

  7 oz/200g baby spinach leaves

  6 large eggs

  3¼ oz/90g feta, broken into ¾-inch/2cm pieces

  1 tbsp za’atar

  Put the butter and 1 tbsp of the oil into a large sauté pan with a lid and place over medium-high heat. Once the butter starts to foam, add the leeks, ½ tsp of salt, and plenty of pepper. Fry for 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until the leeks are soft. Add the cumin, lemon, and vegetable stock and boil rapidly for 4–5 minutes, until most of the stock has evaporated. Fold in the spinach and cook for 1 minute, until wilted, then decrease the heat to medium.

  Use a large spoon to make 6 indentations in the mixture and break 1 egg into each space. Sprinkle the eggs with a pinch of salt, dot the feta around the eggs, then cover the pan. Simmer for 4–5 minutes, until the egg whites are cooked but the yolks are still runny.

  Mix the za’atar with the remaining 1 tbsp of oil and brush over the eggs. Serve at once, straight from the pan.

  Harissa and Manchego omeletes

  I like to eat this either for brunch or for a speedy supper, with a fresh tomato and avocado salad on the side. The onions can be caramelized 2 days in advance and kept in the fridge, so it is worth making a double batch of these. Add a tablespoonful to scrambled eggs or couscous salad, for example. Make the egg mixture the day before if you like and let it sit in the fridge. Everything is then ready to be poured into the pan.

  Serves four

  5 tbsp plus 2 tsp/85ml olive oil

  1 large onion, thinly sliced (2½ cups/250g)

  12 large eggs, lightly beaten

  7 tbsp/100ml whole milk

  4½ tbsp/65g rose harissa (or 50 percent more or less, depending on variety; see this page)

  2 tsp nigella seeds

  ¾ cup/15g cilantro, roughly chopped

  salt and black pepper

  4 oz/110g Manchego, coarsely grated

  2 limes, halved, to serve

  Preheat the broiler to high.

  Put 3 tbsp of the oil into a medium (8-inch/20cm) ovenproof frying pan and place over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 15 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the onion has caramelized and is a deep golden brown. Tip into a large bowl and add the eggs, milk, harissa, nigella seeds, half the cilantro, ½ tsp of salt, and a good grind of black pepper. Whisk to combine and set aside.

  Wipe clean the pan you cooked the onions in, increase the heat to medium-high, and add 2 tsp of the oil. Pour in one-quarter of the egg mixture, swirling it around so that the mixture is evenly spread. After 1 minute, sprinkle with one-quarter of the Manchego and place under the broiler for 1 minute for the cheese to melt and the eggs to puff up and finish cooking. Using a spatula, ease around the edges of the omelete to slide it out of the pan and onto a plate. Keep warm while you continue with the remaining egg mix in the same way, adding more oil with each batch, to get 4 omeletes.

  Serve at once, with the remaining cilantro sprinkled on top and a lime half alongside.

  Zucchini and ciabatta frittata

  This is a regular feature at home on the weekend, when Karl and I are feeding friends. We tend to serve it with a mixed herb and leaf salad dressed with lemon juice and olive oil and a few chunks of feta crumbled over it. The frittata manages to be light, fluffy, and comforting in a way that you can only get when you soak bread with milk and cream. Don’t waste the ciabatta crusts: they can be blitzed into fresh breadcrumbs and freeze well. This can be baked about 4 hours in advance and then warmed through for 5 minutes before serving. Ideally it should be eaten on the day it is baked, but it will keep in the fridge for 1 day; just warm through for 10 minutes.

  Serves six

  1 lb 2 oz/500g ciabatta, crusts removed, roughly torn (6 cups/250g)

  ¾ cup plus 2 tbsp/200ml whole milk

  ¾ cup plus 2 tbsp/200ml heavy cream

  2 large garlic cloves, passed through a garlic press

  6 large eggs, lightly beaten

  ¾ tsp ground cumin

  3 oz/80g Parmesan, finely grated

  salt and black pepper

  2 medium zucchini, coarsely grated (4 cups/430g)

  1¼ cups/25g basil leaves, torn

  2 tbsp olive oil

  Preheat the oven to 400°F.

  Put the ciabatta, milk, and cream into a medium bowl and mix well. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes, for the bread to absorb most of the liquid.

  Put the garlic, eggs, cumin and ¼ cup/50g of Parmesan into a separate large bowl with ¾ tsp salt and ¼ tsp pepper. Mix well, then add the bread and any remaining liquid, followed by the zucchini and basil. Stir gently.

  Place an 8 x 10-inch/20 x 25cm baking dish in the oven for 5 minutes, until hot. Remove from the oven, brush with the oil, and pour in the zucchini mix. Even out the top and bake for 20 minutes. Sprinkle the last of the Parmesan evenly on top of the frittata, then bake for another 20–25 minutes, until the frittata is cooked through—a knife inserted into the center should come out clean—and the top is golden brown. Set aside for 5 minutes, then serve.

  Portobello mushrooms with brioche and poached eggs

  As with all dishes that involve eggs and toast and getting ready in the morning, this is all about timing. Ideally, you want the mushrooms and toast coming out of the oven about the same time, and the eggs poached and ready soon after. Get the mushrooms cooking first, put the bread into the oven halfway through, and then get the eggs poaching. This works as well as a starter late in the day as it does in the morning. Use duck eggs for an extra-rich twist.

  Serves four

  14 oz/400g portobello mushrooms, sliced ½-inch/1cm thick

  5 tbsp/75ml olive oil

  2 garlic cloves, crushed

  ½ tsp ground cinnamon

  flaked sea salt and black pepper

  ¼ cup/5g basil leaves

  ⅛ tsp ground red pepper, plus extra to serve

  4 slices of brioche, cut ¾-inch/2cm thick (about 5¼ oz/150g)

  4 large eggs

  ⅓ cup plus 2 tbsp/100g sour cream, to serve

  Preheat the oven to 450°F.

  Mix the mushrooms with 3 tbsp of the oil, 1 garlic clove, ¼ tsp of the cinnamon, ½ tsp flaked salt, and a good grind of pepper. Spread out on a large parchment-lined baking sheet and roast for 15 minutes, stirring after 7 minutes, until soft and starting to brown. Toss with the basil and set aside.

  While the mushrooms are in the oven, mix the remaining 2 tbsp of oil with the remaining ¼ tsp of cinnamon, 1 garlic clove, the pepper flakes, and ¼ tsp of flaked salt. Brush the oil and spices on one side of the brioche slices and place on a separate parchment-lined baking sheet, brushed side up. With about 6 or 7 minutes left for the mushrooms, put the bread into the oven alongside the mushrooms and toast until the bread is golden brown and crisp.

  Meanwhile, fill a medium saucepan with plenty of water and
bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, decrease the heat to medium-high and carefully break in the eggs. Poach for 1½ minutes for a runny yolk (or a little longer for a firmer set).

  Divide the brioche among four plates and top each slice with the mushrooms so that they are all ready. Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs from the water and spoon them on top of the mushrooms. Sprinkle each egg with a pinch of salt and a pinch of pepper flakes and serve warm, with a spoonful of sour cream alongside.

  Scrambled harissa tofu

  This was brought onto our menu as a vegan option for breakfast. It’s been flying off the pass to all of our customers, vegan or not, ever since, as an alternative to eggs. We serve it on thick slices of grilled sourdough bread with a fresh green salad alongside. It’s also lovely with a sprinkle of crispy fried shallots. If you think you’ll get into the habit of making this for breakfast, double or quadruple the harissa onions—a batch keeps well in the fridge for around 5 days and turns this into a meal that can be ready in 5 minutes. Thanks to Claire Hodgson.

  Serves six

  2 tbsp olive oil

  2 onions, thinly sliced (3 cups/300g)

  AVOCADO AND CUCUMBER SALAD

  ½ English cucumber, sliced in half lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced on an angle (¾ cup/180g)

  2 green chiles, seeded and thinly sliced

  3 ripe avocados, thinly sliced (14 oz/400g)

  1 cup/20g cilantro leaves

  1 tbsp olive oil

  2 tbsp lime juice

  1 tsp nigella seeds

  salt

  1½ tbsp rose harissa (or 50 percent more or less, depending on variety; see this page)

  1½ lb/700g silken tofu, drained

  6 slices of sourdough, toasted

  Place a large frying pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Add the onions and fry for 9–10 minutes, stirring frequently, until caramelized and soft.

  While the onions are frying, mix the cucumber, chiles, avocado, cilantro, oil, lime juice, and nigella seeds with a rounded ¼ tsp salt and set aside.

  Add the harissa to the onions and continue to stir for 1 minute, then add the tofu and ¾ tsp salt. Use a potato masher to break up the tofu so it looks like scrambled egg and continue to heat for 2 minutes, until it’s hot. Serve the scrambled tofu on the toast with the salad alongside.

  Avocado butter on toast with tomato salsa

  The only way to make a creamy, rich avocado even more creamy and rich is, of course, to add some creamy rich butter. Don’t worry that it will be a case of too much of a good thing; the salsa does what all good salsas do, bringing freshness, sharpness, and balance to whatever it sits alongside.

  Make sure your avocados are nice and ripe and that your butter is supersoft so that they blend together properly. Don’t be tempted to speed things along by melting the butter, which will cause it to separate. Just leave it at room temperature for a few hours. Both the salsa and avocado butter can be made 1 day in advance, if you like. Store them separately in the fridge.

  Serves two generously or four as a snack

  2 or 3 very ripe avocados, at room temperature, flesh scooped out to get 9 oz/250g

  ¼ cup/60g unsalted butter, softened and cut into ¾-inch/2cm cubes

  3 limes: finely zest to get 2 tsp, then juice to get 2 tbsp

  salt

  ½ cup/10g tarragon leaves, roughly chopped

  ½ cup/10g dill, roughly chopped

  7 oz/200g cherry tomatoes, quartered

  2 tsp capers, finely chopped

  2 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra to serve

  black pepper

  4 slices of sourdough (10 oz/300g)

  1 small garlic clove, peeled and halved

  ¼ tsp cumin seeds, toasted and crushed

  Put the avocado and butter into the bowl of a small food processor with half the lime zest, half the lime juice, and ½ tsp salt. Blitz until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl a couple of times if you need to. Transfer to a small bowl along with two-thirds of the tarragon and dill. Fold in the herbs, then refrigerate for 10 minutes.

  To make the salsa, mix together the tomatoes, capers, remaining lime zest, remaining lime juice and the oil with a good grind of pepper. Set aside until ready to serve.

  Grill or toast the bread, then rub one side of each piece with the cut side of the garlic clove. Leave the bread to cool down just a little, then spread each slice with the avocado butter and top with the tomato salsa. Sprinkle with the cumin seeds and the remaining herbs. Finish with a grind of pepper and a drizzle of oil, and serve.

  Beet, caraway, and goat cheese bread

  Making a bread that requires no yeast or kneading has got to be the definition of simple! The texture is more cakey as a result and best eaten with some salted butter (not used to make sandwiches). If you are warming it through, do so in the oven rather than in the toaster, as it’s quite crumbly. Once baked, it will keep in an airtight container for 1 week or in the freezer for up to 1 month—thaw before slicing and toasting.

  Makes one loaf, ten slices

  ½ cup/50g rolled oats

  ½ cup/20g thyme leaves, finely chopped

  ⅓ cup/50g pumpkin seeds

  2 tsp caraway seeds

  2 tsp nigella seeds

  ¾ cup/100g all-purpose flour

  ⅔ cup/100g plus 2 tbsp whole wheat flour

  2 tsp baking powder

  ¼ tsp baking soda

  salt

  1 medium beet, peeled and finely grated (2 cups/200g)

  2 large eggs

  ⅓ cup/80ml sunflower oil, plus 1 tbsp extra for greasing

  ⅓ cup/80g sour cream

  1 tbsp honey

  ¾ oz/20g Parmesan, finely grated

  4¼ oz/120g young and creamy goat cheese, roughly broken into ¾-inch/2cm pieces

  Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease an 8 x 4-inch/20 x 10cm loaf pan and line with parchment paper.

  Mix the oats, thyme, pumpkin, caraway, and nigella seeds in a small bowl. Put both flours into a separate bowl with the baking powder, baking soda, and ¾ tsp of salt. Whisk to combine and aerate, then add the grated beet and all but 1 tbsp of the oat and seed mix. Don’t stir the mixture; just set it aside.

  In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, oil, sour cream, honey, and Parmesan. Pour over the flour and beet mixture, then, using a spatula, mix to combine. Add the goat cheese and carefully fold through, trying not to break the pieces as you go.

  Spread the mixture evenly into the prepared loaf pan and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tbsp of the oat and seed mix. Bake for 40 minutes, then cover tightly with foil and bake for another 40 minutes. A skewer inserted into the middle will not come out completely clean, but it should not be too wet. Remove from the oven and let stand for 5 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack and invert the bread so it is resting seed side up. The exterior will be quite crisp and dark. Cool for at least 20 minutes before slicing.

  Cornbread with Cheddar, feta, and jalapeño

  This is such a nice thing to bring to the table, served hot from the oven, out of the pan. It’s a stand-alone bread—delicious as it is—but also happy to share a plate with bacon and avocado salad.

  This bread is best eaten on the day it’s baked, but it’s still fine the next day; just warm it through in the oven. It also freezes well, for up to 1 month. If you don’t have any fresh corn, you can defrost frozen corn kernels to use instead.

  Serves ten to twelve

  1 small ear corn, kernels cut off (mounded 1 cup/150g)

  1 cup/140g all-purpose flour

  1 tsp baking powder

  ½ tsp baking soda

  1 tbsp ground cumin

  1 tsp cayenne

  firmly packed ¼ cup/50g light brown sugar
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  salt and black pepper

  1⅓ cups/180g instant polenta

  1½ cups/360g sour cream

  2 large eggs

  9 tbsp/135ml olive oil

  4 green onions, roughly chopped

  ½ cup/10g cilantro leaves, chopped

  1 jalapeño chile, finely chopped

  FOR THE TOPPING

  3½ oz/100g feta, crumbled

  1¼ cups/100g aged Cheddar, coarsely grated

  1 jalapeño chile, cut into thin rounds

  ½ red onion, cut into ¼-inch/½ cm slices

  2 tsp nigella seeds

  Heat the oven to 375°F.

  Put a large (10-inch/25cm) ovenproof cast-iron pan over high heat. Once hot, add the corn and dry-fry for 4–5 minutes, stirring from time to time, until slightly blackened. Remove from the pan and set aside to cool.

  Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cumin, and cayenne into a large bowl. Add the sugar, along with 1½ tsp salt and a good grind of pepper. Stir and set aside.

  Put the polenta, sour cream, eggs, and ½ cup/120ml of the oil into a separate bowl and whisk lightly. Add to the dry ingredients, then fold in the green onions, cilantro, jalapeño, and toasted corn until just combined.

  Use the remaining 1 tbsp of oil to lightly grease the base and sides of the pan used to toast the corn, then pour in the cornbread mixture and scatter all the topping ingredients over it. Bake for 40–45 minutes, until a skewer comes out clean. Serve the cornbread hot, straight from the oven, or let cool for 30 minutes and serve warm or at room temperature the same day. If serving it the next day, warm it through in the oven just before you need it.