Ottolenghi Simple Read online

  When you are ready to serve, transfer the salad to a serving bowl, add the feta, and mix gently. Pour the tahini on top and finish with the za’atar and a final sprinkle of salt.

  Gem lettuce with fridge-raid dressing

  This started off as a clean-up of all the herbs Tara had lying around in her fridge that needed using up (but it was so good she ended up buying the herbs all over again to keep making it).

  If you’re doing the same, clearing out the vegetable drawer, don’t be too precious about the weight of individual herbs: so long as you keep the total net weight about the same, you’ll be fine.

  Make double the recipe for the dressing if you like. It keeps for 3 days in the fridge and is lovely spooned over all sorts of things: a chicken salad or tuna Niçoise, for example, or roasted root vegetables or a simple tomato and feta salad.

  Get ahead if you like by making the dressing up to 3 days in advance and storing in the fridge.

  Serves four as a side

  ½ very ripe avocado, flesh scooped out (3¼ oz/90g)

  1½-inch/4cm piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped (2 tbsp)

  1 small garlic clove, crushed

  2 lemons: finely zest 1 to get 1 tsp, then juice both to get 3 tbsp

  1 green chile, roughly chopped

  1 tbsp tahini

  5 tbsp plus 2 tsp/85ml olive oil

  salt

  ½ cup/10g basil leaves

  ½ cup/10g tarragon leaves

  ½ cup/10g dill

  ½ cup/10g parsley leaves

  ½ cup/10g cilantro leaves

  ¼ cup/60ml water

  4 gem lettuces, trimmed at the bottom and cut lengthwise into eighths (14 oz/400g)

  2 tsp black sesame seeds (or white), lightly toasted

  Put the avocado, ginger, garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, chile, and tahini into the bowl of a food processor with 5 tbsp/75ml of the oil and a rounded ¼ tsp salt. Blitz to a smooth paste, then add the basil, tarragon, dill, parsley, and cilantro. Blitz again, then, with the machine still running, slowly pour in the water until smooth and combined.

  Mix the gem lettuce with the remaining 2 tsp of oil and ⅛ tsp salt until combined. Transfer to a platter, spoon the dressing on top, and sprinkle with the sesame seeds.

  Cucumber and lamb’s lettuce salad

  Pictured with 5-spice peach and raspberry salad (this page)

  It can be easy to get a bit set in your ways with salad dressing. Trying something new—as I do here, with the ginger and yogurt—can be a real joy. Prep the cucumbers in advance if you like, but don’t mix them with the dressing until just before serving; the salt in the dressing releases the water in the cucumber, so it will become watery if it sits around for too long. If you start with regular-size cucumbers that’s fine, but you’ll need to cut out the watery core before slicing. This is absolutely lovely with all sorts of things—a roast leg of lamb, some grilled salmon, or the pea, za’atar, and feta fritters, on this page, to mention just three.

  The dressing can be made 2 days in advance and kept in the fridge. Slice and refrigerate the cucumbers up to 6 hours in advance.

  Serves four

  DRESSING

  1 tbsp lemon juice

  1 small garlic clove, crushed

  1¼-inch/3cm piece of ginger, finely grated (1 tbsp)

  rounded 1 tbsp plain yogurt

  flaked sea salt

  5 baby cucumbers (or 1½ English cucumbers; 1 lb 2 oz/500g)

  1½ cups/30g lamb’s lettuce

  ½ cup/10g mint leaves

  ½ cup/10g cilantro leaves

  1 tsp nigella seeds

  For the dressing, whisk lemon juice, garlic, ginger, and yogurt with a rounded ¼ tsp flaked salt and set aside.

  Take each cucumber and quarter lengthwise. Then cut each long quarter diagonally into ¼-inch/½ cm slices and place in a large bowl with the lamb’s lettuce, mint, and cilantro. Gently mix the cucumber and leaves with the dressing and spread in a large shallow bowl. Sprinkle with the nigella seeds and serve.

  Watermelon, green apple, and lime salad

  This is delicious as it is—it screams summer, it screams virtuous and it definitely screams delicious—but some roasted peanuts, pistachios, or cashews sprinkled on top also work as a nice addition.

  Serves six as a side

  ½ medium watermelon (2¾ lb/1.3kg), rind and seeds discarded and flesh cut into 2¾-inch/7cm-long, ¼-inch/½ cm-wide batons (4¾ cups/600g)

  2 Granny Smith apples, cored and cut into 2¾-inch/7cm-long, ¼-inch/½ cm-wide batons (2 cups/250g)

  3 limes: finely zest to get 2 tsp, then juice to get 3 tbsp

  1 tbsp olive oil

  1 lemongrass stalk, trimmed, woody outer leaves discarded, then finely chopped (2 tbsp)

  ¼ cup/5g mint leaves

  ½ cup/10g cilantro leaves

  flaked sea salt

  1½ tsp black mustard seeds, lightly toasted

  Mix the salad just before you’re ready to serve, otherwise it will get too soggy. In a large bowl, combine the watermelon, apples, lime zest, lime juice, olive oil, and lemongrass with three-quarters of the herbs and ¾ tsp of flaked salt. Using your hands as a natural sieve, arrange the salad on a platter. There will be quite a bit of juice at the bottom of the bowl; you don’t need it. Scatter with the remaining herbs, sprinkle with the mustard seeds and ¼ tsp of flaked salt, and serve.

  5-spice peach and raspberry salad

  You don’t want this salad to be too sweet, so for the best results start with peaches that are not too ripe. This looks so perfectly summery and also works really well at a barbecue, where the fruit complements and cuts through all sorts of meat. Some slow-cooked pork belly alongside is a particularly winning combination.

  Serves four as a side

  1½ tbsp cider vinegar

  1 tsp maple syrup

  ¼ tsp Chinese 5-spice powder

  1 tbsp olive oil

  1 shallot, thinly sliced (¼ cup/20g)

  salt

  3½ oz/100g raspberries

  3 firm peaches, halved, pits removed, cut into ¼-inch/½ cm wedges (2 cups/290g)

  2 cups/40g watercress

  ¼ head radicchio, cut into ¾-inch/2cm slices (2 cups/50g)

  In a large bowl, mix together the vinegar, maple syrup, 5-spice powder, oil, and shallot with a rounded ¼ tsp salt. Add the raspberries, lightly crushing them with the back of a fork, then add the peaches, watercress, and radicchio. Mix well and serve.

  Burrata with grilled grapes and basil

  Burrata—which means “buttered” in Italian—is one of life’s great pleasures. The outside is firm mozzarella, the inside an oozy combination of stracciatella and cream. The combination of the three is unsurprisingly good. Burrata can be paired with all sorts of flavors—citrus fruit or juice, sweet balsamic, peppery arugula, or toasted spices. Here, sweet red grapes are skewered and grilled—a method that is as simple as it is impressive. If you want to get ahead, marinate the grapes in the fridge for up to 1 day before grilling. If you can’t get hold of burrata, balls of buffalo mozzarella make an absolutely fine alternative.

  Serves six as a generous starter

  11¼ oz/320g seedless red grapes, pulled off their vine

  2 tbsp Valdespino vinegar (or other best-quality sherry vinegar)

  3 tbsp olive oil

  1 garlic clove, crushed

  1½ tsp dark brown sugar

  1½ tsp fennel seeds, toasted and lightly crushed

  flaked sea salt and black pepper

  3 large balls of burrata or buffalo mozzarella (1 lb 5 oz/600g)

  6 small purple or green basil sprigs (¼ cup/5g), to serve

  Put the grapes in a medium bowl with the vinegar, oil, garlic, sugar
, 1 tsp of the fennel seeds, ¼ tsp of flaked salt, and plenty of pepper. Mix well and marinate for at least 1 hour and up to 1 day. Thread 5 or 6 grapes onto each skewer. Don’t throw away the marinade; you’ll need it when serving.

  Place a grill pan over high heat and ventilate your kitchen well. Once hot, add the grape skewers in batches and grill for 2–3 minutes, turning after 1½ minutes. Remove from the heat.

  When ready to serve, tear the balls of burrata in half and place one-half on each plate. Arrange the grape skewers to lean against them—2 per portion—and spoon 1½ tsp of the marinade over the cheese. Alternatively, arrange on a platter to serve a crowd. Sprinkle with the remaining ½ tsp of fennel seeds, garnish with a sprig of basil, and serve.

  Cauliflower “tabbouleh”

  If you’re doubling or tripling this recipe, break the cauliflower into florets and pop them into a food processor (rather than grating by hand). Pulse a few times to blitz it up into tabbouleh-like pieces, but don’t overwork the machine, as the cauliflower will turn to a mush. Toasted pistachios, roughly chopped, can be used instead of (or as well as) the pomegranate seeds, if you want a crunchy garnish.

  Serves six

  1 large cauliflower (1¾ lb/800g)

  5 tbsp/75ml lemon juice, from 3 lemons

  salt

  7 green onions, finely chopped (scant 1 cup/70g)

  2½ cups/50g parsley, roughly chopped

  1¼ cups/25g dill, roughly chopped

  1 cup/20g mint, roughly chopped

  1 tsp ground allspice

  3 tbsp olive oil

  black pepper

  ⅔ cup/100g pomegranate seeds (from ½ pomegranate)

  Hold the cauliflower by its stalk and grate the florets and smaller stalks coarsely, on the large holes of a box grater. (Alternatively, you can use a food processor with its largest grating attachment in place, which is quicker.) Once grated, the cauliflower looks like cooked bulgur wheat and should weigh about 1½ lb/700g. The cauliflower stalk can be sliced thinly and added to salads.

  Place the grated cauliflower in a large bowl along with the lemon juice and 1¼ tsp salt. Set aside to marinate for 20 minutes, then add the green onions, parsley, dill, mint, allspice, oil, and a generous grind of black pepper. Gently mix to combine, transfer to a serving plate or bowl, sprinkle with the pomegranate seeds, and serve.

  Green onion and herb salad

  This is lovely alongside all sorts of meat: it’s as green- and herb-filled as a spring roast chicken wants (this page) and as citrusy and refreshing as any slow-cooked lamb (this page) or beef meatballs (this page) might demand.

  If you can get hold of baby cucumbers for this, then do; they have a lot less water in them than the standard ones. If you start with the large ones that’s fine, but slice in half lengthwise, scoop out the watery seeded core, and proceed.

  The dressing can be made the day before. Prepare the salad to the point of adding the herbs and salt up to 4–6 hours in advance.

  Serves six as a side

  DRESSING

  1½-inch/4cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped (¼ cup/25g)

  2 tbsp lemon juice

  2½ tbsp olive oil

  ¼ tsp salt

  15 green onions, cut into quarters lengthwise and finely chopped (2¼ cups/150g)

  2 small Lebanese cucumbers (or ½ small English cucumber), unpeeled and cut into ½-inch/1cm dice (1 cup/150g)

  1 green bell pepper, cut in half lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ½-inch/1cm dice (1 cup/150g)

  ¾ cup/15g mint leaves, finely shredded

  ¾ cup/15g cilantro, roughly chopped

  ½ tsp nigella seeds

  salt

  To make the dressing, place the ginger in a pestle and mortar and crush to form a rough paste. Mix with the lemon juice, oil, and salt and set aside.

  Place the green onions, cucumbers, bell pepper, mint, and cilantro in a large bowl. Add the dressing, and toss well. Add the nigella seeds and salt to taste, toss again, and serve.

  Curried lentil, tomato, and coconut soup

  Pictured on this page, bottom

  I like the rough texture of this soup—with the lentils still holding their shape and the cilantro distinct—but you can also blitz it before serving, if you prefer things smooth. This soup can be made 4 days in advance if kept in the fridge, and up to 1 month if frozen.

  Cilantro stems can all too often be thrown away, but they shouldn’t be—they have the texture of chives and taste, unsurprisingly, of cilantro. Serve this soup with lime wedges, if you like, for a citrusy kick.

  Serves four

  2 tbsp coconut oil or sunflower oil

  1 onion, finely chopped (1¼ cups/160g)

  1 tbsp medium curry powder

  ¼ tsp crushed red pepper flakes

  2 garlic cloves, crushed

  2-inch/5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped (rounded ¼ cup/30g)

  ¾ cup/150g red lentils, rinsed and drained

  1 (14.5 oz/400g) can chopped tomatoes

  1¼ cups/25g cilantro stems, roughly chopped, plus ¼ cup/5g leaves, to garnish

  2½ cups/600ml water

  salt and black pepper

  1 (13.5oz/400ml) can coconut milk

  Put the oil into a medium saucepan and place over medium-high heat. Add the onion and fry for 8 minutes, stirring frequently, until soft and caramelized. Add the curry powder, pepper flakes, garlic, and ginger and continue to fry for 2 minutes, stirring continuously. Add the lentils, stir through for 1 minute, then add the tomatoes, cilantro stems, water, 1 tsp of salt, and a very generous grind of pepper.

  Pour the coconut milk into a bowl and gently whisk until smooth and creamy. Set aside ¼ cup/60ml—you’ll need this when serving—and add all the remaining coconut milk to the soup. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat to medium and simmer gently for 25 minutes, until the lentils are soft but still holding their shape. Add a little bit more water—about 7–10 tbsp/100–150ml—if your soup needs thinning.

  Divide the soup among four bowls, drizzle with the reserved coconut milk, sprinkle with cilantro leaves, and serve.

  Zucchini, pea, and basil soup

  Pictured on this page, top

  A slightly heartier version of this soup—made with chicken stock and topped with pan-fried cubes of ham or pancetta—is also delicious.

  The key to keeping a green soup as green and vibrant as can be is not to overcook it. Once the peas and basil have been added to the pan you want to remove it from the heat and blitz it straightaway. This can be made 3 days in advance if kept in the fridge, and up to 1 month if frozen.

  Serves eight

  5 tbsp/75ml olive oil, plus extra to serve

  1 head of garlic, cloves separated and peeled

  about 6 zucchini, chopped into 1¼ inch/3cm-thick slices (9 cups/1.3kg)

  salt and black pepper

  1 qt/1L vegetable stock

  2 cups/500ml water

  4¼ cups/500g frozen peas

  2½ cups/50g basil leaves

  7 oz/200g feta, broken into ½–¾ inch/1–2cm pieces

  1 lemon, finely zested to get 1 tsp

  Put the oil into an extra-large saucepan and place over medium-high heat. Add the whole garlic cloves and fry for 2–3 minutes, stirring frequently, until they turn golden. Add the zucchini, 2 tsp of salt, and plenty of pepper and continue to fry for 3 minutes, stirring continuously, until starting to brown. Pour in the stock, along with the water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook for 7 minutes, until the zucchini are soft but still bright green.

  Add the peas, stir through for 1 minute, then add the basil. Remove from the heat and, using an immersion blender, blitz until the soup is smooth and vibrant green.

  When ready to s
erve, spoon into eight bowls and top with the feta and lemon zest. Finish with a good grind of black pepper and a drizzle of oil.

  Pumpkin, saffron, and orange soup

  Pictured on this page, left

  When they’re in season, through autumn and winter, there are all sorts of weird and wonderful pumpkins and squash at the market. Winter squash are best for this soup—their consistency is firm and their flavor has a depth that is similar to sweet potatoes. You can also make it with summer squash (of which pumpkin is one)—the flesh will just be a bit more fibrous and watery.

  The soup will keep in the fridge for 3 days, or can be frozen for up to 1 month, and the pumpkin seeds will keep well in a dry, sealed container for a good week. Double or triple the recipe for the pumpkin seeds—they are lovely to have around to sprinkle over other soups, salads, or roasted vegetables.

  Serves four to six

  TOASTED PUMPKIN SEEDS

  mounded ½ cup/80g pumpkin seeds

  2 tsp maple syrup

  ¼ tsp crushed red pepper flakes

  ¼ cup/60ml olive oil

  2 onions, sliced into 1¼-inch/3cm wedges (3½ cups/350g)

  2½ lb/1.2kg pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled and seeds removed, flesh cut into 1¼-inch/3cm cubes (8 cups/1kg)

  salt and black pepper

  1 qt/1L vegetable stock

  2 tbsp rose harissa (or 50 percent more or less, depending on variety; see this page)